Thursday, March 8, 2018
Saturday, May 22, 2010
Build your own deck or call us 601 212 5433
Deck Building 13 - Applying the Deck Boards
Most Common Mistakes
1. Not using enough nails.
2. Not leaving a gap between the deck boards.
3. Not forcing bow out of crooked boards.
You are now ready to start installing your deck boards. This part of the job goes quickly and easily and is rather exciting. You really start to see your deck coming together. You need to consider each board you apply since they all will be seen. Look at each piece and try to put the most attractive pieces in the high-visibility areas. Also, look at each side of each board to see which side you want exposed. Check to see how badly bowed the boards are. If there are a few very bad pieces, reject them, because they will look crooked once the decking is down.
One advantage of redwood is its outstanding stability. In varying moisture conditions its shrinking or swelling is minimal. It resists warping, checking, and cupping better than other woods.
TIP: Hot dipped or double hot dipped galvanized (HDG) fasteners will not rust and are less expensive than aluminum and stainless steel nails.
Start your decking application from the wall and work toward the yard. Be sure that the first course you apply next to the wail is made of good, straight pieces, because this course is used as a guide and if it is crooked it affects all the other courses. Also be sure that you leave a gap between the first course and the wall, so that water can drain down the wall.
If possible, purchase boards that are long enough to span the entire width of the deck. If the deck is too wide, this may not be possible. Even if boards are available, any lengths over 14’ are often very crooked. If two pieces are needed, the pieces must always join directly over the center of a joist, to provide a nailing surface for each piece. Never join all the courses over the same joist, as it will look like a big suture running down the deck. Stagger the joints so that every other course joins over the same joists.
Finishing nails are not recommended for use in deck construction, rather use double HDG 16d nails. Stainless steel and aluminum nails work even better because they do not stain the wood, but these may be hard to find. Beware of electroplated nails, which often rust. Except with redwood, it is usually best to use three nails in a 2 x 8 and two nails in 2 x 4 and 2 x 6 boards, at each point where the board crosses a joist On 2 x 4 and 2 x 6 redwood boards one nail per joist can be used. Alternate these nails from one side of the board to the other. This method counters any minor tendency to cup or pull. Two nails are used for boards 8” or wider. All nails should penetrate 1 1/2” into the joists.
I recommend you use a combination square and mark a true perpendicular line across each joist so that you can place all your nails in a straight line. It takes a little more time, but you will be surprised to see how much better it looks, once the deck is completed. The process of nailing on the deck boards is rather straightforward, but there are a few things you need to know. First, be sure you always leave a gap between each course of deck boards. This allows water to drain off the deck. You can stick a flat carpenter’s pencil or the shank of a 16d nail between the courses as they are applied; this should leave an adequate gap (1/8 - 1/4”).
No board is perfect, and many will have bows that need to be pulled out This is done by forcing the bow out as you nail from one end to the other. This is why you never nail from both ends to the middle: you may trap the bow. Put in your spacer to create the needed gap and then force the board into place. It will usually straighten out if the board is not too badly bowed. Use a smooth-headed hammer and try not to scar the wood (though the first few rains will probably draw out most of the dents). Also, a pry bar can be used to force the board straight.
Usually it is easiest to place the deck boards flush with the outside edge of one of the outer joists, let them "run wild" at the other end, and then cut this end all at once. The only other trick to applying the decking is to drill pilot holes when nailing near the end of a board. This involves areas such as where two deck boards join together in the center of a joist and both ends must be nailed to that joist Usually you would split the wood if you tried to nail that close to the end of a board. To avoid this, use a cordless drill to drill a pilot hole, one slightly smaller than the shank of the nail (use HDG finishing nails for these end nailings), and then drive the nail into this. This will prevent splitting. Begin to lay the deck boards.
Tip: Paint the exposed ends of the joists and deck boards with a waterproofing for added protection. the house end. Measure out from the wall every few courses to be sure all boards are equidistant from the wall as you progress. Continue until you are one course away from the end of the joists. Also, stand up and look down on the deck to be sure you are not trapping any bows in the boards and that the deck, in general, looks good.
Most Common Mistakes
1. Not using enough nails.
2. Not leaving a gap between the deck boards.
3. Not forcing bow out of crooked boards.
You are now ready to start installing your deck boards. This part of the job goes quickly and easily and is rather exciting. You really start to see your deck coming together. You need to consider each board you apply since they all will be seen. Look at each piece and try to put the most attractive pieces in the high-visibility areas. Also, look at each side of each board to see which side you want exposed. Check to see how badly bowed the boards are. If there are a few very bad pieces, reject them, because they will look crooked once the decking is down.
One advantage of redwood is its outstanding stability. In varying moisture conditions its shrinking or swelling is minimal. It resists warping, checking, and cupping better than other woods.
TIP: Hot dipped or double hot dipped galvanized (HDG) fasteners will not rust and are less expensive than aluminum and stainless steel nails.
Start your decking application from the wall and work toward the yard. Be sure that the first course you apply next to the wail is made of good, straight pieces, because this course is used as a guide and if it is crooked it affects all the other courses. Also be sure that you leave a gap between the first course and the wall, so that water can drain down the wall.
If possible, purchase boards that are long enough to span the entire width of the deck. If the deck is too wide, this may not be possible. Even if boards are available, any lengths over 14’ are often very crooked. If two pieces are needed, the pieces must always join directly over the center of a joist, to provide a nailing surface for each piece. Never join all the courses over the same joist, as it will look like a big suture running down the deck. Stagger the joints so that every other course joins over the same joists.
Finishing nails are not recommended for use in deck construction, rather use double HDG 16d nails. Stainless steel and aluminum nails work even better because they do not stain the wood, but these may be hard to find. Beware of electroplated nails, which often rust. Except with redwood, it is usually best to use three nails in a 2 x 8 and two nails in 2 x 4 and 2 x 6 boards, at each point where the board crosses a joist On 2 x 4 and 2 x 6 redwood boards one nail per joist can be used. Alternate these nails from one side of the board to the other. This method counters any minor tendency to cup or pull. Two nails are used for boards 8” or wider. All nails should penetrate 1 1/2” into the joists.
I recommend you use a combination square and mark a true perpendicular line across each joist so that you can place all your nails in a straight line. It takes a little more time, but you will be surprised to see how much better it looks, once the deck is completed. The process of nailing on the deck boards is rather straightforward, but there are a few things you need to know. First, be sure you always leave a gap between each course of deck boards. This allows water to drain off the deck. You can stick a flat carpenter’s pencil or the shank of a 16d nail between the courses as they are applied; this should leave an adequate gap (1/8 - 1/4”).
No board is perfect, and many will have bows that need to be pulled out This is done by forcing the bow out as you nail from one end to the other. This is why you never nail from both ends to the middle: you may trap the bow. Put in your spacer to create the needed gap and then force the board into place. It will usually straighten out if the board is not too badly bowed. Use a smooth-headed hammer and try not to scar the wood (though the first few rains will probably draw out most of the dents). Also, a pry bar can be used to force the board straight.
Usually it is easiest to place the deck boards flush with the outside edge of one of the outer joists, let them "run wild" at the other end, and then cut this end all at once. The only other trick to applying the decking is to drill pilot holes when nailing near the end of a board. This involves areas such as where two deck boards join together in the center of a joist and both ends must be nailed to that joist Usually you would split the wood if you tried to nail that close to the end of a board. To avoid this, use a cordless drill to drill a pilot hole, one slightly smaller than the shank of the nail (use HDG finishing nails for these end nailings), and then drive the nail into this. This will prevent splitting. Begin to lay the deck boards.
Tip: Paint the exposed ends of the joists and deck boards with a waterproofing for added protection. the house end. Measure out from the wall every few courses to be sure all boards are equidistant from the wall as you progress. Continue until you are one course away from the end of the joists. Also, stand up and look down on the deck to be sure you are not trapping any bows in the boards and that the deck, in general, looks good.
How to build a deck or call us 601 212 5433
Deck Building 10 - Installing the Girders
Intro - Prep - Tools and Materials - Ledger - Holes - Attach Ledger - Joists - Foundation - Set Pier - Girders - Layout Joists - Install Joists - Deck Boards - Cutting Ends - Facing - Railing - Waterproof
Margin of Error. 1/4”
Most Common Mistakes
1. Using badly bowed girder stock.
2. Girder not level.
Now you are ready to install your girders or beams. You may do this in one of two ways. One is to pre-build the girders/post system, bolt or nail the entire thing together, and then move it as one large piece into place. The other way is to build it piece by piece in place. If the posts and girders are not too long and heavy, we recommend the first procedure putting it all together as one piece and then moving it into place.
There are several different girder/post variations. The girder can rest on top of the posts attached with metal fasteners or two girders can sandwich the posts and be bolted or nailed to them. As long as it passes your local code, either system will work. You may want to cost out the wood, since one system may be more cost effective than the other.
To build your girder/post system, first cut the wooden posts the proper height In our case the posts’ height is the same as the level of the bottom of the joists. Note that the bottoms of the joists rest on top of the girders and that the tops of the girders are at the same height as the tops of the posts.
To determine this post height, go back to your two outer joists and check to be sure they are still exactly level. Now move the string that is on top of the joists so that it is connected on the bottoms of the joists. The level of the bottom of the joists is the same level as the top of the posts you are about to cut. Now measure from the top of each pier block (or metal fastener) to the string, and cut posts corresponding to each of these measurements. it is that simple. But be sure you are accurate and that you make good straight cuts so the posts will sit smoothly on the pier blocks. To do this, you will need to mark around the circumference of the post, cut one side, and then rotate it and cut the sides a4jacent to it Finally make one more cut on the side opposite the first cut.
After the posts are cut, cut your pieces of girder stock the specified length. This will be the length of the ledger plus 3”. Try to use one continuous piece of girder stock for each piece, but if the deck is too long and that is not possible, be sure the two pieces meet at a post so they can both be attached there. Also be sure that all girder stock is extremely straight Pick these pieces yourself at the store. If they are bowed, the entire deck will rise or fall, since the deck joists all sit on top of them. If there is a SMALL (1/2” over 12’) bow, point it up toward the sky and it will settle down in time.
With all your pieces cut you can now assemble posts and girders into one unit. Usually this is done with bolts, nails, or metal fasteners. recommend using bolts. If you are resting the girder on top of the posts, use metal fasteners. Be sure to always use hot dipped galvanized (HDG) fasteners, boils, or nails so they will not rust If you are bolting it together, drill your holes good and straight so the bolts will go through straight. Use a bit that is 1/8“ larger than the bolt, to allow for final adjustments. Once the entire unit is assembled, move it into place under your two outer joists. If you are assembling the pieces in place, the application is pretty much the same. Before toe nailing the outer joists to the top of the girder, measure out from the wall to be sure the girder is the proper distance from the wall.
Once you have ascertained this, check once again to be sure the joists are still at right angles from the ledger and still level. Once all this is checked, nail the joists into the girders with some 10d galvanized nails to use some special L-shaped metal fasteners.
Deck Building 11 - Laying Out the Joists on the Ledger
Margin of Error: 1/4"
Most Common Mistakes
1. Nailing the joist hanger on the wrong side of the mark.
2. Improper layout.
After your girder is in place, you are now ready to install your remaining joists. To do this you need to make marks, called layout marks, on the ledger and girder that show where each joist will be located. This process is called a layout.
Usually joists are located so that their centers occur exactly every 16”, 24”, or 32”. This is called their "on-center" distance. The distance between joists depends on several important factors:
1. Size of the joists
2. Spacing of the joists
3. Length of span from ledger to girder
4. Type of wood used for joists
5. Any heavy loading, such as snow
This is one of the few crucial dimensions specified in deck building. If you undersize or over space the joists, the decking can collapse or the building inspector can stop the project. Be sure you talk to a local retailer or building code office about the proper sizing for your joists and span. Joists placed 24” on center are usually adequate.
After you have determined their spacing, the layout is rather simple. Starting from a nail nailed at the center of one of the two outer joists already in- stalled, measure along the ledger, making a clear mark every 24” (or 16”). These marks indicate the center of each joist. However, it is a good idea to make a second mark 3/4” to either the left or right side of each of these first marks. This new mark locates one side of each joist rather than the middle; this makes it easier to locate the joist hangers on the ledger. Using a combination square, draw this new mark straight down across the ledger. Be sure it is a good, straight mark, since you will be nailing your joist hanger to this mark. Nail the hangers on flush with the edge of these new marks.
Do a similar layout on the girder, so that you know exactly where each joist crosses the girder. Again, draw new lines 3/4" to one side of the center line (the same as you did for the ledger) and then make an “X” so that you will know on which side of this line the joists will finally sit
After you have made all your marks, begin nailing the metal joist hangers on the ledger using the special stubby joist hanger nails provided with the hangers. Only nail on one side of the hanger, allowing the other side to float free until the joist is inserted. Nail on the one side so that the interior edge of the joist hanger is nailed along the line you drew to mark the side of the joist. Be sure as you go along that you are dear about which side of the mark the joist hanger and joist should be nailed to, to assure proper spacing. Even a seasoned professional can accidentally put the joist and joist hanger on the wrong side of the mark.
Deck Building 12 - Installing the Remaining Joists
Margin of Error: 1/4”
Most Common Mistakes
1. Not crowning joists.
2. Placing joist on wrong side of layout mark.
It is now time to install the remaining joists. Again, this is rather simple. Some builders cut the joists to length before installing. I recommend you cut the joists after almost all your decking boards are in place. The reason for this will become clear later on. Now, simply insert the joists into the joist hangers. Be sure, however, as you do this, that you crown each joist, pointing the bow skyward. Insert it in the hanger, nail the other (loose) side of the hanger tight up against the joist, and then nail hanger nails through the hanger into
the joist and ledger. Then toenail the joist (using two 10d HDG nails) through the joist into the girder. Special HDG L-shaped fasteners can be used here instead of nails. This is especially recommended in earthquake areas.
NOTE: Some builders, especially in areas of heavy rain or snow, also place galvanized metal flashing on top of each joist before the deck boards are applied. This flashing helps keep water from getting trapped between the decking and the joists, causing rot. Inquire whether this is done in your area.
Intro - Prep - Tools and Materials - Ledger - Holes - Attach Ledger - Joists - Foundation - Set Pier - Girders - Layout Joists - Install Joists - Deck Boards - Cutting Ends - Facing - Railing - Waterproof
Margin of Error. 1/4”
Most Common Mistakes
1. Using badly bowed girder stock.
2. Girder not level.
Now you are ready to install your girders or beams. You may do this in one of two ways. One is to pre-build the girders/post system, bolt or nail the entire thing together, and then move it as one large piece into place. The other way is to build it piece by piece in place. If the posts and girders are not too long and heavy, we recommend the first procedure putting it all together as one piece and then moving it into place.
There are several different girder/post variations. The girder can rest on top of the posts attached with metal fasteners or two girders can sandwich the posts and be bolted or nailed to them. As long as it passes your local code, either system will work. You may want to cost out the wood, since one system may be more cost effective than the other.
To build your girder/post system, first cut the wooden posts the proper height In our case the posts’ height is the same as the level of the bottom of the joists. Note that the bottoms of the joists rest on top of the girders and that the tops of the girders are at the same height as the tops of the posts.
To determine this post height, go back to your two outer joists and check to be sure they are still exactly level. Now move the string that is on top of the joists so that it is connected on the bottoms of the joists. The level of the bottom of the joists is the same level as the top of the posts you are about to cut. Now measure from the top of each pier block (or metal fastener) to the string, and cut posts corresponding to each of these measurements. it is that simple. But be sure you are accurate and that you make good straight cuts so the posts will sit smoothly on the pier blocks. To do this, you will need to mark around the circumference of the post, cut one side, and then rotate it and cut the sides a4jacent to it Finally make one more cut on the side opposite the first cut.
After the posts are cut, cut your pieces of girder stock the specified length. This will be the length of the ledger plus 3”. Try to use one continuous piece of girder stock for each piece, but if the deck is too long and that is not possible, be sure the two pieces meet at a post so they can both be attached there. Also be sure that all girder stock is extremely straight Pick these pieces yourself at the store. If they are bowed, the entire deck will rise or fall, since the deck joists all sit on top of them. If there is a SMALL (1/2” over 12’) bow, point it up toward the sky and it will settle down in time.
With all your pieces cut you can now assemble posts and girders into one unit. Usually this is done with bolts, nails, or metal fasteners. recommend using bolts. If you are resting the girder on top of the posts, use metal fasteners. Be sure to always use hot dipped galvanized (HDG) fasteners, boils, or nails so they will not rust If you are bolting it together, drill your holes good and straight so the bolts will go through straight. Use a bit that is 1/8“ larger than the bolt, to allow for final adjustments. Once the entire unit is assembled, move it into place under your two outer joists. If you are assembling the pieces in place, the application is pretty much the same. Before toe nailing the outer joists to the top of the girder, measure out from the wall to be sure the girder is the proper distance from the wall.
Once you have ascertained this, check once again to be sure the joists are still at right angles from the ledger and still level. Once all this is checked, nail the joists into the girders with some 10d galvanized nails to use some special L-shaped metal fasteners.
Deck Building 11 - Laying Out the Joists on the Ledger
Margin of Error: 1/4"
Most Common Mistakes
1. Nailing the joist hanger on the wrong side of the mark.
2. Improper layout.
After your girder is in place, you are now ready to install your remaining joists. To do this you need to make marks, called layout marks, on the ledger and girder that show where each joist will be located. This process is called a layout.
Usually joists are located so that their centers occur exactly every 16”, 24”, or 32”. This is called their "on-center" distance. The distance between joists depends on several important factors:
1. Size of the joists
2. Spacing of the joists
3. Length of span from ledger to girder
4. Type of wood used for joists
5. Any heavy loading, such as snow
This is one of the few crucial dimensions specified in deck building. If you undersize or over space the joists, the decking can collapse or the building inspector can stop the project. Be sure you talk to a local retailer or building code office about the proper sizing for your joists and span. Joists placed 24” on center are usually adequate.
After you have determined their spacing, the layout is rather simple. Starting from a nail nailed at the center of one of the two outer joists already in- stalled, measure along the ledger, making a clear mark every 24” (or 16”). These marks indicate the center of each joist. However, it is a good idea to make a second mark 3/4” to either the left or right side of each of these first marks. This new mark locates one side of each joist rather than the middle; this makes it easier to locate the joist hangers on the ledger. Using a combination square, draw this new mark straight down across the ledger. Be sure it is a good, straight mark, since you will be nailing your joist hanger to this mark. Nail the hangers on flush with the edge of these new marks.
Do a similar layout on the girder, so that you know exactly where each joist crosses the girder. Again, draw new lines 3/4" to one side of the center line (the same as you did for the ledger) and then make an “X” so that you will know on which side of this line the joists will finally sit
After you have made all your marks, begin nailing the metal joist hangers on the ledger using the special stubby joist hanger nails provided with the hangers. Only nail on one side of the hanger, allowing the other side to float free until the joist is inserted. Nail on the one side so that the interior edge of the joist hanger is nailed along the line you drew to mark the side of the joist. Be sure as you go along that you are dear about which side of the mark the joist hanger and joist should be nailed to, to assure proper spacing. Even a seasoned professional can accidentally put the joist and joist hanger on the wrong side of the mark.
Deck Building 12 - Installing the Remaining Joists
Margin of Error: 1/4”
Most Common Mistakes
1. Not crowning joists.
2. Placing joist on wrong side of layout mark.
It is now time to install the remaining joists. Again, this is rather simple. Some builders cut the joists to length before installing. I recommend you cut the joists after almost all your decking boards are in place. The reason for this will become clear later on. Now, simply insert the joists into the joist hangers. Be sure, however, as you do this, that you crown each joist, pointing the bow skyward. Insert it in the hanger, nail the other (loose) side of the hanger tight up against the joist, and then nail hanger nails through the hanger into
the joist and ledger. Then toenail the joist (using two 10d HDG nails) through the joist into the girder. Special HDG L-shaped fasteners can be used here instead of nails. This is especially recommended in earthquake areas.
NOTE: Some builders, especially in areas of heavy rain or snow, also place galvanized metal flashing on top of each joist before the deck boards are applied. This flashing helps keep water from getting trapped between the decking and the joists, causing rot. Inquire whether this is done in your area.
Thursday, May 20, 2010
Build your own deck or call us 601 212 5433
Deck Building 10 - Installing the Girders
Intro - Prep - Tools and Materials - Ledger - Holes - Attach Ledger - Joists - Foundation - Set Pier - Girders - Layout Joists - Install Joists - Deck Boards - Cutting Ends - Facing - Railing - Waterproof
Margin of Error. 1/4”
Most Common Mistakes
1. Using badly bowed girder stock.
2. Girder not level.
Now you are ready to install your girders or beams. You may do this in one of two ways. One is to pre-build the girders/post system, bolt or nail the entire thing together, and then move it as one large piece into place. The other way is to build it piece by piece in place. If the posts and girders are not too long and heavy, we recommend the first procedure putting it all together as one piece and then moving it into place.
There are several different girder/post variations. The girder can rest on top of the posts attached with metal fasteners or two girders can sandwich the posts and be bolted or nailed to them. As long as it passes your local code, either system will work. You may want to cost out the wood, since one system may be more cost effective than the other.
To build your girder/post system, first cut the wooden posts the proper height In our case the posts’ height is the same as the level of the bottom of the joists. Note that the bottoms of the joists rest on top of the girders and that the tops of the girders are at the same height as the tops of the posts.
To determine this post height, go back to your two outer joists and check to be sure they are still exactly level. Now move the string that is on top of the joists so that it is connected on the bottoms of the joists. The level of the bottom of the joists is the same level as the top of the posts you are about to cut. Now measure from the top of each pier block (or metal fastener) to the string, and cut posts corresponding to each of these measurements. it is that simple. But be sure you are accurate and that you make good straight cuts so the posts will sit smoothly on the pier blocks. To do this, you will need to mark around the circumference of the post, cut one side, and then rotate it and cut the sides a4jacent to it Finally make one more cut on the side opposite the first cut.
After the posts are cut, cut your pieces of girder stock the specified length. This will be the length of the ledger plus 3”. Try to use one continuous piece of girder stock for each piece, but if the deck is too long and that is not possible, be sure the two pieces meet at a post so they can both be attached there. Also be sure that all girder stock is extremely straight Pick these pieces yourself at the store. If they are bowed, the entire deck will rise or fall, since the deck joists all sit on top of them. If there is a SMALL (1/2” over 12’) bow, point it up toward the sky and it will settle down in time.
With all your pieces cut you can now assemble posts and girders into one unit. Usually this is done with bolts, nails, or metal fasteners. recommend using bolts. If you are resting the girder on top of the posts, use metal fasteners. Be sure to always use hot dipped galvanized (HDG) fasteners, boils, or nails so they will not rust If you are bolting it together, drill your holes good and straight so the bolts will go through straight. Use a bit that is 1/8“ larger than the bolt, to allow for final adjustments. Once the entire unit is assembled, move it into place under your two outer joists. If you are assembling the pieces in place, the application is pretty much the same. Before toe nailing the outer joists to the top of the girder, measure out from the wall to be sure the girder is the proper distance from the wall.
Once you have ascertained this, check once again to be sure the joists are still at right angles from the ledger and still level. Once all this is checked, nail the joists into the girders with some 10d galvanized nails to use some special L-shaped metal fasteners.
Read more: http://www.doityourself.com/stry/9deckgirders#ixzz0njNjkTRL
Intro - Prep - Tools and Materials - Ledger - Holes - Attach Ledger - Joists - Foundation - Set Pier - Girders - Layout Joists - Install Joists - Deck Boards - Cutting Ends - Facing - Railing - Waterproof
Margin of Error. 1/4”
Most Common Mistakes
1. Using badly bowed girder stock.
2. Girder not level.
Now you are ready to install your girders or beams. You may do this in one of two ways. One is to pre-build the girders/post system, bolt or nail the entire thing together, and then move it as one large piece into place. The other way is to build it piece by piece in place. If the posts and girders are not too long and heavy, we recommend the first procedure putting it all together as one piece and then moving it into place.
There are several different girder/post variations. The girder can rest on top of the posts attached with metal fasteners or two girders can sandwich the posts and be bolted or nailed to them. As long as it passes your local code, either system will work. You may want to cost out the wood, since one system may be more cost effective than the other.
To build your girder/post system, first cut the wooden posts the proper height In our case the posts’ height is the same as the level of the bottom of the joists. Note that the bottoms of the joists rest on top of the girders and that the tops of the girders are at the same height as the tops of the posts.
To determine this post height, go back to your two outer joists and check to be sure they are still exactly level. Now move the string that is on top of the joists so that it is connected on the bottoms of the joists. The level of the bottom of the joists is the same level as the top of the posts you are about to cut. Now measure from the top of each pier block (or metal fastener) to the string, and cut posts corresponding to each of these measurements. it is that simple. But be sure you are accurate and that you make good straight cuts so the posts will sit smoothly on the pier blocks. To do this, you will need to mark around the circumference of the post, cut one side, and then rotate it and cut the sides a4jacent to it Finally make one more cut on the side opposite the first cut.
After the posts are cut, cut your pieces of girder stock the specified length. This will be the length of the ledger plus 3”. Try to use one continuous piece of girder stock for each piece, but if the deck is too long and that is not possible, be sure the two pieces meet at a post so they can both be attached there. Also be sure that all girder stock is extremely straight Pick these pieces yourself at the store. If they are bowed, the entire deck will rise or fall, since the deck joists all sit on top of them. If there is a SMALL (1/2” over 12’) bow, point it up toward the sky and it will settle down in time.
With all your pieces cut you can now assemble posts and girders into one unit. Usually this is done with bolts, nails, or metal fasteners. recommend using bolts. If you are resting the girder on top of the posts, use metal fasteners. Be sure to always use hot dipped galvanized (HDG) fasteners, boils, or nails so they will not rust If you are bolting it together, drill your holes good and straight so the bolts will go through straight. Use a bit that is 1/8“ larger than the bolt, to allow for final adjustments. Once the entire unit is assembled, move it into place under your two outer joists. If you are assembling the pieces in place, the application is pretty much the same. Before toe nailing the outer joists to the top of the girder, measure out from the wall to be sure the girder is the proper distance from the wall.
Once you have ascertained this, check once again to be sure the joists are still at right angles from the ledger and still level. Once all this is checked, nail the joists into the girders with some 10d galvanized nails to use some special L-shaped metal fasteners.
Read more: http://www.doityourself.com/stry/9deckgirders#ixzz0njNjkTRL
Tuesday, May 18, 2010
Build your own deck or call us 601 212 5433
Build you own deck...foundation
Deck Building 8 - Locating the Foundation Pier Holes
Intro - Prep - Tools and Materials - Ledger - Holes - Attach Ledger - Joists - Foundation - Set Pier - Girders - Layout Joists - Install Joists - Deck Boards - Cutting Ends - Facing - Railing - Waterproof
Margin of Error: 1"
Most Common Mistakes
1. Locating hole on top of under- ground pipe or wire.
2. Not checking plans for exact location of hole.
With the two outer joists in place you now have a clear outline of the edges of the deck. From this outline you can locate all your foundation pier holes. Check your plans to determine the ex- act locations. Say, for instance, your plans call for two holes, the centers of which are exactly 11 from the wall and 2' in from the outer edges of the sides of the deck. Then measure out along each of the two outer joists 11' from the wall, mark the joists, drive nails at those points, and draw a string from joist to joist between the two nails. Now measure 2' from the outside edges of the joists along the string and mark the string. If there are decorative band joists to be added over the two side joists just installed (see Figure 1 at the beginning of the chapter showing deck components), be sure to allow for these in your measurements. These marks locate the centers of the two pier holes. You can now transfer these marks to the ground, using a plumb bob, and drive in two small stakes. Then mark out for the radius of the pier holes and begin digging.
NOTE: The location of the pier block holes is unique to each deck project. Code enforcement will have some say here, but design is also a factor. Piers are often inset from the sides of the deck to hide them from view. The supporting girder supported by these piers is often inset from the end of the deck a foot or two, because a cantilevered or overhanging deck has a nice visual appeal. In any case, be sure you know where you want the supports before you start to dig.
Deck Building 9 - Digging Foundation Holes and Setting Pier Blocks
I prefer to set the posts in concrete, but the layout is the same. Just using the posts set one third the height into the ground. for example, a deck requiring 8 foot high post, would have the total length of the post to be 12 foot post , with 4 feet set into the gound.
Digging the Foundation Holes
Margin of: 1"
Most Common Mistakes
1. Not digging deep enough for local codes and frost lines.
2. Not digging into stable, undisturbed soil.
3. Not squaring off walls at the bottom of the hole.
I won't insult you by trying to tell you how to dig a hole, but I need to say a few things about the hole before you start to dig. The size of the hole is important. The diameter is usually about 16", but check your local code. More importantly the depth of the hole is often regulated by code. Distances of 12" - 60" are the range, depending on the frost level in your area (the colder the climate, the deeper the hole).
Once you have determined the diameter and depth, simply dig your needed holes, being sure to dig good, straight (not sloping) walls. Dig until you hit stable undisturbed soil that will not settle. Never backfill a hole with loose dirt before pouring concrete. This compacts and causes settling.
Tip: Keep the concrete damp while hardening for a stronger pour. This can be done by sprinkling water on the pour as it dries or by laying wet cloths across the top.
Pouring the footings and Setting the Pier Blocks
Margin of Error: 1/2"
Most Common Mistakes
1. Top of pier blocks not level.
2. Pier blocks not properly aligned
3. Neglecting to use the metal connector where required.
Now you are ready to mix up some concrete, pour it in your hole, drop a pier block in the fresh concrete, level and align it, and continue.
A few words on mixing concrete. On small deck jobs I recommend that you simply buy the ready-mixed concrete with all needed ingredients in a bag, mix it with some water, and pour it in the hole. Purchase enough bags to fill your holes; you don't want to run short and have to rush back to the store to finish off a hole. You will be surprised how many bags a hole can require.
Mix the concrete in a wheelbarrow or pan with a cement hoe, and be sure to follow the instructions as to the proper mix. Pour the concrete in the hole within an inch or so of the top and smooth it out with a piece of 2 x 4 or a trowel until it is relatively level. You can now place the pier blocks.
Pier blocks serve as a transition from the posts supporting the girder to the concrete foundation footings. Although they can be built at the site, they are available at all home centers and hard- ware stores in a range of styles and sizes and are therefore not worth the hassle of pouring them yourself. The most common type is simply a small truncated concrete pyramid on top of which the wooden post sits. The weight of the deck keeps the post in contact with the pier block A version of this is a pier block that has a small piece of redwood or pressure-treated lumber embedded in the top so that the post can be toe nailed to the block. Often metal fasteners are used in areas where there are earthquakes. They are embedded in the fresh concrete and the posts are bolted to them. This pre- vents the posts from shaking off the pier blocks in a quake.
After the hole has been filled with concrete, and the concrete leveled and smoothed, drop the pier block into the fresh concrete and work it down until at least 3" - 4" of the base of the block are embedded. As you set the block, be sure of two things. that they are properly aligned and that they are level. It should be rather easy to check both. To check alignment, simply drop the plumb bob from the marks on your string to be sure the tip of the plumb bob is in the centers of the pier blocks. To check level, use a small torpedo level, placing it in both directions as well as diagonally across the top of the pier blocks until the tops are level. Tap and move the blocks around to make any needed adjustments. After your pier blocks are property set, allow the concrete to harden (this can take anywhere from 2 to 24 hours). Then you can begin building the girders and posts. We recommend keeping the concrete damp while hardening for a stronger pour. You can do this by sprinkling water on the pour as it dries or by laying wet cloths across the top.
Deck Building 8 - Locating the Foundation Pier Holes
Intro - Prep - Tools and Materials - Ledger - Holes - Attach Ledger - Joists - Foundation - Set Pier - Girders - Layout Joists - Install Joists - Deck Boards - Cutting Ends - Facing - Railing - Waterproof
Margin of Error: 1"
Most Common Mistakes
1. Locating hole on top of under- ground pipe or wire.
2. Not checking plans for exact location of hole.
With the two outer joists in place you now have a clear outline of the edges of the deck. From this outline you can locate all your foundation pier holes. Check your plans to determine the ex- act locations. Say, for instance, your plans call for two holes, the centers of which are exactly 11 from the wall and 2' in from the outer edges of the sides of the deck. Then measure out along each of the two outer joists 11' from the wall, mark the joists, drive nails at those points, and draw a string from joist to joist between the two nails. Now measure 2' from the outside edges of the joists along the string and mark the string. If there are decorative band joists to be added over the two side joists just installed (see Figure 1 at the beginning of the chapter showing deck components), be sure to allow for these in your measurements. These marks locate the centers of the two pier holes. You can now transfer these marks to the ground, using a plumb bob, and drive in two small stakes. Then mark out for the radius of the pier holes and begin digging.
NOTE: The location of the pier block holes is unique to each deck project. Code enforcement will have some say here, but design is also a factor. Piers are often inset from the sides of the deck to hide them from view. The supporting girder supported by these piers is often inset from the end of the deck a foot or two, because a cantilevered or overhanging deck has a nice visual appeal. In any case, be sure you know where you want the supports before you start to dig.
Deck Building 9 - Digging Foundation Holes and Setting Pier Blocks
I prefer to set the posts in concrete, but the layout is the same. Just using the posts set one third the height into the ground. for example, a deck requiring 8 foot high post, would have the total length of the post to be 12 foot post , with 4 feet set into the gound.
Digging the Foundation Holes
Margin of: 1"
Most Common Mistakes
1. Not digging deep enough for local codes and frost lines.
2. Not digging into stable, undisturbed soil.
3. Not squaring off walls at the bottom of the hole.
I won't insult you by trying to tell you how to dig a hole, but I need to say a few things about the hole before you start to dig. The size of the hole is important. The diameter is usually about 16", but check your local code. More importantly the depth of the hole is often regulated by code. Distances of 12" - 60" are the range, depending on the frost level in your area (the colder the climate, the deeper the hole).
Once you have determined the diameter and depth, simply dig your needed holes, being sure to dig good, straight (not sloping) walls. Dig until you hit stable undisturbed soil that will not settle. Never backfill a hole with loose dirt before pouring concrete. This compacts and causes settling.
Tip: Keep the concrete damp while hardening for a stronger pour. This can be done by sprinkling water on the pour as it dries or by laying wet cloths across the top.
Pouring the footings and Setting the Pier Blocks
Margin of Error: 1/2"
Most Common Mistakes
1. Top of pier blocks not level.
2. Pier blocks not properly aligned
3. Neglecting to use the metal connector where required.
Now you are ready to mix up some concrete, pour it in your hole, drop a pier block in the fresh concrete, level and align it, and continue.
A few words on mixing concrete. On small deck jobs I recommend that you simply buy the ready-mixed concrete with all needed ingredients in a bag, mix it with some water, and pour it in the hole. Purchase enough bags to fill your holes; you don't want to run short and have to rush back to the store to finish off a hole. You will be surprised how many bags a hole can require.
Mix the concrete in a wheelbarrow or pan with a cement hoe, and be sure to follow the instructions as to the proper mix. Pour the concrete in the hole within an inch or so of the top and smooth it out with a piece of 2 x 4 or a trowel until it is relatively level. You can now place the pier blocks.
Pier blocks serve as a transition from the posts supporting the girder to the concrete foundation footings. Although they can be built at the site, they are available at all home centers and hard- ware stores in a range of styles and sizes and are therefore not worth the hassle of pouring them yourself. The most common type is simply a small truncated concrete pyramid on top of which the wooden post sits. The weight of the deck keeps the post in contact with the pier block A version of this is a pier block that has a small piece of redwood or pressure-treated lumber embedded in the top so that the post can be toe nailed to the block. Often metal fasteners are used in areas where there are earthquakes. They are embedded in the fresh concrete and the posts are bolted to them. This pre- vents the posts from shaking off the pier blocks in a quake.
After the hole has been filled with concrete, and the concrete leveled and smoothed, drop the pier block into the fresh concrete and work it down until at least 3" - 4" of the base of the block are embedded. As you set the block, be sure of two things. that they are properly aligned and that they are level. It should be rather easy to check both. To check alignment, simply drop the plumb bob from the marks on your string to be sure the tip of the plumb bob is in the centers of the pier blocks. To check level, use a small torpedo level, placing it in both directions as well as diagonally across the top of the pier blocks until the tops are level. Tap and move the blocks around to make any needed adjustments. After your pier blocks are property set, allow the concrete to harden (this can take anywhere from 2 to 24 hours). Then you can begin building the girders and posts. We recommend keeping the concrete damp while hardening for a stronger pour. You can do this by sprinkling water on the pour as it dries or by laying wet cloths across the top.
Sunday, May 16, 2010
Build your own deck or call us 601 212 5433
Building your own deck..setting the ledger board or call Michael at 601 750 2274
Squaring up your layout Deck Building 5 - Drilling Holes for the Ledger
Margin of Error: 1/4"
Most Common Mistakes
1. Using a badly bowed board.
2. Not using rustproof lag screws or bolts.
3. Not installing ledger at proper height or location.
4. Not caulking bolt holes before installing ledger.
5. Drilling holes where joists will be attached.
After you have decided on the placement of the ledger, in regard to both its height and its location on the wall, you are ready to install it.
Choose a good straight piece of ledger stock (usually the same size as the joists) and cut it to the proper length. Again, this is the total length of the deck less 3". Now you can drill holes in the ledger for the lag screws or bolts that will hold the ledger to the house. These holes are drilled with a bit that is 1/8" larger than the actual screws so that you will have a little play for adjustments. Usually the holes are in pairs, one on top of the other, every 30", or staggered singly every 15". Be sure that all holes are drilled at least 1" more from the edge of the board for proper holding. You may want to check with the local code to see if there are any regulations concerning the location of these lag screws.
With the ledger resting on saw horses, begin at one end and mark the lag screw locations. Always drill a pair of holes 12" in from either end. Drill all needed holes.
You are now ready to temporarily attach the ledger to the wall, mark the corresponding holes on the siding, remove the ledger, and drill the holes in the siding. If there is a slight bow in the board, turn this toward the sky, since it is easier to push it down to get it straight.
Place the ledger's top edge at the mark you have located on the wall that represents the top of the ledger and nail one end temporarily in place. Then place a 4' - 8' level on the board, get it exactly level, and temporarily nail in the other end. The ledger is now temporarily nailed in its proper place. Check once again to be sure it is exactly level before marking the holes. Then, with a felt-tipped pen or sharp pencil, mark the lag screw holes that were drilled in the ledger on the wail. Now remove the ledger.
You are now ready to drill the lag screw holes in the wall. Do not use the same size bit that you used on the ledger. Use a bit that is one size smaller than the shank of the lag screw. This will assure that the lag screw has a good bite into the wall. Drill all the holes, being sure to hold the drill straight so the lag screws will go in straight. Again be sure that you are drilling into solid wood, or use the blocking and bolt method described earlier.
After removing the ledger, as a precaution before you attach the ledger permanently to the wall, squirt some silicone caulk in the holes in the wail before screwing in the lag screws. This will help keep rainwater running down the wall from flowing into the structure through the lag screw holes.
Margin of Error: 1/4"
Most Common Mistakes
1. Not leaving a space between the wall and the ledger.
2. Not screwing ledger into something solid.
3. Not using rustproof lag screws.
4. Using galvanized washers with aluminum siding
5. Not caulking holes before installing.
You probably think you are now ready to attach the ledger to the wall, but not quite yet. There is still one crucial detail you must attend to. The situation is as follows. If the ledger were attached directly against the wall, so that the back surface of the ledger was tight against the wall, rainwater running down the wall would get trapped between the wall and the back surface of the ledger. This would cause rotting. To avoid this you need to leave a small space (1/2"- 3/4"), so that water can continue to run to the ground.
The easiest way to do this is to install washers on the lag screws between the ledger and the wall. These washers should be hot dipped galvanized (HDG), which do not rust. Use aluminum washers if your wall is aluminum siding. Galvanized metal touching aluminum causes corrosion. These washers will leave an adequate gap. Also, if your siding is not flat but has different surface levels (beveled siding, aluminum siding, shingles, etc.), more or fewer washers can be installed on the top screws than on the lower ones, to compensate and cause the ledger to be installed true vertical.
After you have threaded the lag screws into the ledger, installed the proper number of washers on each screw, and squirted caulk into the holes, lift the ledger into place, tap the screws into the wall, and, with a socket or crescent wrench, tighten the screws. Be sure that the screws are biting solidly into the wall, especially the last 2". You are now ready to install the two edge joists and locate your pier holes.
If you are using pressure-treated lumber or a decay resistant lumber that is not all heart, we recommend that you paint a waterproofing on the cut ends of the ledger and all other exposed boards.
Tip: Use a combination square and mark a perpendicular line across each joist so that you can place all your nails in a straight line.
Deck Building 7 - Cutting Ends of Joists and Deck Boards
Margin of Error: 1/4"
Most Common Mistakes
1. Joists not set at right angle from the wall.
2. Joists not placed level.
3. Joists not nailed to cover exposed ends of the ledger.
4. Not pointing the crown skyward.
Now that the ledger is permanently attached to the wall, you can install the two outermost joists at either end of the ledger. At this time these joists are being used as reference for locating the foundation pier holes. The outer joists are set in place, lines are drawn between them at the prescribed distance from the wall, and on these lines the location of the foundation pier holes are marked. These marks are then transferred down to the ground and the holes dug. The distance from the house to the supporting girder will depend on the size of your deck, the type of wood being used as joists, and the size and spacing of the joists.
This is a rather simple way of locating your pier holes. It usually works well, unless the lot slopes steeply. Some builders use other techniques, including setting up what is known as batter- boards and layout lines. I think this method using the two outer joists as references is perhaps easiest for the do-it-yourselfer.
Choose two of your straightest joists to install at either end of the ledger. As you look down the joists you will notice that they have a small bow, or crown. Almost no piece of wood is ever perfectly straight.
Once installed, this crown should always point up toward the sky. This is called "crowning a joist" In time the bow will settle down if gravity is working with it. So be sure to crown your joists before installing. Don't worry about cutting the joists the proper length at this time. Let them run wild, since they will be cut when you apply the decking.
When you nail these outer joists to the ledger, do so with the joists covering up the exposed end of the ledger. Have one person nail the joist into the ledger using 3 or 4 16d (penny) HDG (double hot dipped galvanized) nails, while another person supports the other end of the joist in a more or less level position. After the end is nailed to the ledger, drive a temporary 2 x 4 stake into the ground that will hold the floating end level and at a right angle to the ledger. To do this, after one person has nailed the joist to the ledger and while the other person is supporting the other end, place a framing square at the intersection of the joist and the ledger. Once this is approximately 90 degrees, drive a stake in the ground to support the joist there, place a 4' - 8' level on the joist to be sure it is level, and nail the joist to the stake. At this point none of these measurements are too accurate. The next step, using a 3 - 4 - 5 triangle, will insure the accuracy of your right angle.
Tip: You can apply waterproofing coats to redwood at twelve- to eighteen-month intervals to eliminate the darkening effect and preserve the beautiful buckskin color.
To insure this accuracy, use the old mathematical formula that states, in a right-angled triangle the sum of the squares of the sides equals the square of the hypotenuse. (In case you have forgotten your high school geometry, the hypotenuse is the side opposite the right angle.) For example, if the two sides of a triangle are 3 and 4 (feet, inches, miles, etc.) and the hypotenuse is 5, then the angle across from the hypotenuse is a true right angle (3 squared + 4 squared=5 squared, or 9 + 16=25). This is also referred to as the 3 - 4 - 5 triangle. This remains accurate if you multiply each side by the same number, for example, 6 - 8 - 10, or even 300 - 400 - 500.
Back to our deck. Our goal is to assure that these two outside joists are at a true right angle to the ledger. Measure out along the ledger from the outside edge 8' and mark it. Measure along the joist 6' and mark. Now measure between these two marks. If it is 10' (we are using a 6 - & - 10 triangle) then you are at a true right angle. If not, readjust your stake and joist until it is exactly 10' between the marks. Once you have it exact, nail some temporary cross braces from the ledger to the joists at an angle to keep the joists in place. You should now have your two outer joists level, at true right angles from the ledger, and temporarily supported by stakes.
Squaring up your layout Deck Building 5 - Drilling Holes for the Ledger
Margin of Error: 1/4"
Most Common Mistakes
1. Using a badly bowed board.
2. Not using rustproof lag screws or bolts.
3. Not installing ledger at proper height or location.
4. Not caulking bolt holes before installing ledger.
5. Drilling holes where joists will be attached.
After you have decided on the placement of the ledger, in regard to both its height and its location on the wall, you are ready to install it.
Choose a good straight piece of ledger stock (usually the same size as the joists) and cut it to the proper length. Again, this is the total length of the deck less 3". Now you can drill holes in the ledger for the lag screws or bolts that will hold the ledger to the house. These holes are drilled with a bit that is 1/8" larger than the actual screws so that you will have a little play for adjustments. Usually the holes are in pairs, one on top of the other, every 30", or staggered singly every 15". Be sure that all holes are drilled at least 1" more from the edge of the board for proper holding. You may want to check with the local code to see if there are any regulations concerning the location of these lag screws.
With the ledger resting on saw horses, begin at one end and mark the lag screw locations. Always drill a pair of holes 12" in from either end. Drill all needed holes.
You are now ready to temporarily attach the ledger to the wall, mark the corresponding holes on the siding, remove the ledger, and drill the holes in the siding. If there is a slight bow in the board, turn this toward the sky, since it is easier to push it down to get it straight.
Place the ledger's top edge at the mark you have located on the wall that represents the top of the ledger and nail one end temporarily in place. Then place a 4' - 8' level on the board, get it exactly level, and temporarily nail in the other end. The ledger is now temporarily nailed in its proper place. Check once again to be sure it is exactly level before marking the holes. Then, with a felt-tipped pen or sharp pencil, mark the lag screw holes that were drilled in the ledger on the wail. Now remove the ledger.
You are now ready to drill the lag screw holes in the wall. Do not use the same size bit that you used on the ledger. Use a bit that is one size smaller than the shank of the lag screw. This will assure that the lag screw has a good bite into the wall. Drill all the holes, being sure to hold the drill straight so the lag screws will go in straight. Again be sure that you are drilling into solid wood, or use the blocking and bolt method described earlier.
After removing the ledger, as a precaution before you attach the ledger permanently to the wall, squirt some silicone caulk in the holes in the wail before screwing in the lag screws. This will help keep rainwater running down the wall from flowing into the structure through the lag screw holes.
Margin of Error: 1/4"
Most Common Mistakes
1. Not leaving a space between the wall and the ledger.
2. Not screwing ledger into something solid.
3. Not using rustproof lag screws.
4. Using galvanized washers with aluminum siding
5. Not caulking holes before installing.
You probably think you are now ready to attach the ledger to the wall, but not quite yet. There is still one crucial detail you must attend to. The situation is as follows. If the ledger were attached directly against the wall, so that the back surface of the ledger was tight against the wall, rainwater running down the wall would get trapped between the wall and the back surface of the ledger. This would cause rotting. To avoid this you need to leave a small space (1/2"- 3/4"), so that water can continue to run to the ground.
The easiest way to do this is to install washers on the lag screws between the ledger and the wall. These washers should be hot dipped galvanized (HDG), which do not rust. Use aluminum washers if your wall is aluminum siding. Galvanized metal touching aluminum causes corrosion. These washers will leave an adequate gap. Also, if your siding is not flat but has different surface levels (beveled siding, aluminum siding, shingles, etc.), more or fewer washers can be installed on the top screws than on the lower ones, to compensate and cause the ledger to be installed true vertical.
After you have threaded the lag screws into the ledger, installed the proper number of washers on each screw, and squirted caulk into the holes, lift the ledger into place, tap the screws into the wall, and, with a socket or crescent wrench, tighten the screws. Be sure that the screws are biting solidly into the wall, especially the last 2". You are now ready to install the two edge joists and locate your pier holes.
If you are using pressure-treated lumber or a decay resistant lumber that is not all heart, we recommend that you paint a waterproofing on the cut ends of the ledger and all other exposed boards.
Tip: Use a combination square and mark a perpendicular line across each joist so that you can place all your nails in a straight line.
Deck Building 7 - Cutting Ends of Joists and Deck Boards
Margin of Error: 1/4"
Most Common Mistakes
1. Joists not set at right angle from the wall.
2. Joists not placed level.
3. Joists not nailed to cover exposed ends of the ledger.
4. Not pointing the crown skyward.
Now that the ledger is permanently attached to the wall, you can install the two outermost joists at either end of the ledger. At this time these joists are being used as reference for locating the foundation pier holes. The outer joists are set in place, lines are drawn between them at the prescribed distance from the wall, and on these lines the location of the foundation pier holes are marked. These marks are then transferred down to the ground and the holes dug. The distance from the house to the supporting girder will depend on the size of your deck, the type of wood being used as joists, and the size and spacing of the joists.
This is a rather simple way of locating your pier holes. It usually works well, unless the lot slopes steeply. Some builders use other techniques, including setting up what is known as batter- boards and layout lines. I think this method using the two outer joists as references is perhaps easiest for the do-it-yourselfer.
Choose two of your straightest joists to install at either end of the ledger. As you look down the joists you will notice that they have a small bow, or crown. Almost no piece of wood is ever perfectly straight.
Once installed, this crown should always point up toward the sky. This is called "crowning a joist" In time the bow will settle down if gravity is working with it. So be sure to crown your joists before installing. Don't worry about cutting the joists the proper length at this time. Let them run wild, since they will be cut when you apply the decking.
When you nail these outer joists to the ledger, do so with the joists covering up the exposed end of the ledger. Have one person nail the joist into the ledger using 3 or 4 16d (penny) HDG (double hot dipped galvanized) nails, while another person supports the other end of the joist in a more or less level position. After the end is nailed to the ledger, drive a temporary 2 x 4 stake into the ground that will hold the floating end level and at a right angle to the ledger. To do this, after one person has nailed the joist to the ledger and while the other person is supporting the other end, place a framing square at the intersection of the joist and the ledger. Once this is approximately 90 degrees, drive a stake in the ground to support the joist there, place a 4' - 8' level on the joist to be sure it is level, and nail the joist to the stake. At this point none of these measurements are too accurate. The next step, using a 3 - 4 - 5 triangle, will insure the accuracy of your right angle.
Tip: You can apply waterproofing coats to redwood at twelve- to eighteen-month intervals to eliminate the darkening effect and preserve the beautiful buckskin color.
To insure this accuracy, use the old mathematical formula that states, in a right-angled triangle the sum of the squares of the sides equals the square of the hypotenuse. (In case you have forgotten your high school geometry, the hypotenuse is the side opposite the right angle.) For example, if the two sides of a triangle are 3 and 4 (feet, inches, miles, etc.) and the hypotenuse is 5, then the angle across from the hypotenuse is a true right angle (3 squared + 4 squared=5 squared, or 9 + 16=25). This is also referred to as the 3 - 4 - 5 triangle. This remains accurate if you multiply each side by the same number, for example, 6 - 8 - 10, or even 300 - 400 - 500.
Back to our deck. Our goal is to assure that these two outside joists are at a true right angle to the ledger. Measure out along the ledger from the outside edge 8' and mark it. Measure along the joist 6' and mark. Now measure between these two marks. If it is 10' (we are using a 6 - & - 10 triangle) then you are at a true right angle. If not, readjust your stake and joist until it is exactly 10' between the marks. Once you have it exact, nail some temporary cross braces from the ledger to the joists at an angle to keep the joists in place. You should now have your two outer joists level, at true right angles from the ledger, and temporarily supported by stakes.
Friday, May 14, 2010
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Ledge board detailsDeck Building 3 - Tools and Materials Checklist
Tools
* Framing hammer
* Shovel
* Torpedo level
* Wheelbarrow or pan
* 4' level
* Plumb bob
* Cement hoe
* Pencil
* Trowel
* Nail pouch
* Pry bar
* Safety goggles
* Caulking gun
* Ear plugs
* Extension cords
* First aid kit
* Socket or crescent wrench
* Framing square
* Combination square
* Power saw
* Tape measure
* Handsaw Sawhorses
Materials
* Pier blocks
* Post anchors
* HDG nails
* Railing stock
* HDG lag bolts or screws
* Flashing (if needed)
* Decking
* Ledger board
* Girder stock
* Band joists
* Joist stock
* Silicon caulk
* Post stock
* Water-repellant
* Joist hangers sealer
* Joist hanger nails
* Nylon string
* Right-angle brackets
* Ready-mix concrete
* Post caps
Deck Building 4 - Determining Level and Length of Ledger
Margin of Error: 1/4"
Most Common Mistakes
1. Using badly bowed board.
2. Choosing wrong height or location.
3. Not using redwood, cedar, cypress, or pressure-treated stock.
4. Not following codes.
If you are attaching a deck to your existing home, you will probably use a ledger board. You bolt this board to the house and hang the deck on it, thereby attaching the deck securely to the house. If you plan a freestanding deck (not attached to the house), you do not use a ledger. In some areas a deck attached to a house will be taxed, but if it is separated by even an inch or two it will not. In this chapter we consider the more common approach to attaching a deck to an existing home. If your deck is freestanding, everything discussed here will still apply but the ledger is not bolted to the house. With freestanding decks, added bracing may be needed to stabilize the deck.
Before discussing the ledger itself, let's talk about its location. The location of the ledger will be determined by the desired level, or height, of the deck and its placement on the house. I assume you have already decided about the deck design and location, so let's look at the ledger's height and length.
The Level of the Ledger
The level, or height of the ledger determines the height of the deck. Usually the top of the ledger will be 1 1/2" below the final top surface of the deck (because 1 1/2" decking boards will be nailed on top). Sometimes the deck joists, which support the decking or surface of the deck, are installed so that they sit on top of the ledger rather than hang from it. In that case the top of the ledger will be considerably lower than the final level of the deck (by the dimension of the joist width plus 1 1/2"). Before you install the ledger you will need to decide whether to hang the joists from the ledger or rest them on top. Whenever possible it is best to hang them from the ledger with joist hangers.
No matter what approach you use, you want to be sure the ledger is low enough so that, once the decking is installed, the level of the deck will beat least 1" below the level of the finished floor inside the house. This is necessary because you naturally want to step down from the house to the deck, rather than trip over it. Also, if the deck is higher than the floor, water runs from the deck to the house. If you never plan to put a door from the house to the deck, the height of the deck is not as important.
Determine the level of the interior finished floor and transfer this level to the outside of the wall where the deck will be built. You can do this by measuring on the inside and outside from a common reference point, such as a windowsill. (Adjust your measurements if the sill slopes toward the outside.) If this is impossible, you may need to measure up from the foundation wall, accounting for the floor joist, sub floor, and finished flooring materials. Once you have determined this level, mark it on the exterior wall. This first mark will correspond to the level of the finished floor inside. Make a second mark a minimum of 2 1/2" below this initial mark This will allow you to install 1 1/2" decking and still place the level of the deck 1" below the level of the interior floor. You can place the top of the ledger anywhere below this second mark and be safe.
The Length of the Ledger
The length of the ledger equals the total length of the deck, less 3". This 3" is so that the joists at either end of the deck will overlap the ledger and be nailed to it. The joists are 1 1/2" thick, hence the 3" reduction in length so that the finished deck will be the designated length. If possible, you will want to have the ledger be one long piece of stock. However, if the length is over 16' - 18', it may be hard to find a straight piece that long. In this case, two pieces will work. Always try to use pieces that are at least 6' - 8' long.
Location on the Wall
It is important that the ledger be securely attached. Place the ledger at a point on the wall where, once it is attached, the lag screws attaching the ledger will penetrate something solid such as wall studs or floor joists. Ledgers are often placed at the same level as the floor joists of the first floor, and this automatically solves the problem. In this case, the lag screws will penetrate the band joists. If you are installing the ledger at some other level, see if there is anything solid behind the wall that the lag screws can be screwed into, If there is nothing, you may need to attach the ledger with bolts. First place some blocking behind the wall, to secure it.
Tip: In areas of heavy rain or snow, place a metal flashing on top of each deck board before the deck boards are applied. The metal flashing helps keep water from getting trapped between the decking and the joists and causing rot.
Choosing the Ledger
When selecting a piece for the ledger, be sure it is straight with little bow (a curve in the board). If the ledger is curved, the deck will have a corresponding curve upward or downward. Some minor bow can be forced out as you apply it, but anything more than that (say, 1/2" of curve over 12' of board) will throw the deck off. Be sure the board, as with all decking materials, is of redwood, cedar, cypress, or pressure-treated lumber. After you have decided on the final placement of the ledger, in regard to both its height and location on the wall, you are ready to install it. First, however, check to see if there are any obstructions, such as hose faucets, dryer vents, gas or water pipes, electrical wires, and so on. Any such obstructions may have to be relocated; or, sometimes, the ledger can break, leaving a gap where obstructions occur. Remember that everything below the ledger will be underneath the deck and therefore less accessible. You may need to call in an electrician or a plumber to rearrange some wires or pipes if you cannot do this yourself. Never play with the electrical or gas system unless you are confident that you know exactly what you are doing. Mark on the ground the location of any underground pipes or wires before you begin digging the foundation holes so that you can be sure that you will not be disturbing them. If you cannot locate any pipes or wires, dig slowly and be prepared to change the location of the foundation piers if necessary.
Tip: To help keep rain water running down the wall from flowing into the structure through the lag screw holes, squirt some silicone caulk in the holes before screwing in the lag screws.
Tools
* Framing hammer
* Shovel
* Torpedo level
* Wheelbarrow or pan
* 4' level
* Plumb bob
* Cement hoe
* Pencil
* Trowel
* Nail pouch
* Pry bar
* Safety goggles
* Caulking gun
* Ear plugs
* Extension cords
* First aid kit
* Socket or crescent wrench
* Framing square
* Combination square
* Power saw
* Tape measure
* Handsaw Sawhorses
Materials
* Pier blocks
* Post anchors
* HDG nails
* Railing stock
* HDG lag bolts or screws
* Flashing (if needed)
* Decking
* Ledger board
* Girder stock
* Band joists
* Joist stock
* Silicon caulk
* Post stock
* Water-repellant
* Joist hangers sealer
* Joist hanger nails
* Nylon string
* Right-angle brackets
* Ready-mix concrete
* Post caps
Deck Building 4 - Determining Level and Length of Ledger
Margin of Error: 1/4"
Most Common Mistakes
1. Using badly bowed board.
2. Choosing wrong height or location.
3. Not using redwood, cedar, cypress, or pressure-treated stock.
4. Not following codes.
If you are attaching a deck to your existing home, you will probably use a ledger board. You bolt this board to the house and hang the deck on it, thereby attaching the deck securely to the house. If you plan a freestanding deck (not attached to the house), you do not use a ledger. In some areas a deck attached to a house will be taxed, but if it is separated by even an inch or two it will not. In this chapter we consider the more common approach to attaching a deck to an existing home. If your deck is freestanding, everything discussed here will still apply but the ledger is not bolted to the house. With freestanding decks, added bracing may be needed to stabilize the deck.
Before discussing the ledger itself, let's talk about its location. The location of the ledger will be determined by the desired level, or height, of the deck and its placement on the house. I assume you have already decided about the deck design and location, so let's look at the ledger's height and length.
The Level of the Ledger
The level, or height of the ledger determines the height of the deck. Usually the top of the ledger will be 1 1/2" below the final top surface of the deck (because 1 1/2" decking boards will be nailed on top). Sometimes the deck joists, which support the decking or surface of the deck, are installed so that they sit on top of the ledger rather than hang from it. In that case the top of the ledger will be considerably lower than the final level of the deck (by the dimension of the joist width plus 1 1/2"). Before you install the ledger you will need to decide whether to hang the joists from the ledger or rest them on top. Whenever possible it is best to hang them from the ledger with joist hangers.
No matter what approach you use, you want to be sure the ledger is low enough so that, once the decking is installed, the level of the deck will beat least 1" below the level of the finished floor inside the house. This is necessary because you naturally want to step down from the house to the deck, rather than trip over it. Also, if the deck is higher than the floor, water runs from the deck to the house. If you never plan to put a door from the house to the deck, the height of the deck is not as important.
Determine the level of the interior finished floor and transfer this level to the outside of the wall where the deck will be built. You can do this by measuring on the inside and outside from a common reference point, such as a windowsill. (Adjust your measurements if the sill slopes toward the outside.) If this is impossible, you may need to measure up from the foundation wall, accounting for the floor joist, sub floor, and finished flooring materials. Once you have determined this level, mark it on the exterior wall. This first mark will correspond to the level of the finished floor inside. Make a second mark a minimum of 2 1/2" below this initial mark This will allow you to install 1 1/2" decking and still place the level of the deck 1" below the level of the interior floor. You can place the top of the ledger anywhere below this second mark and be safe.
The Length of the Ledger
The length of the ledger equals the total length of the deck, less 3". This 3" is so that the joists at either end of the deck will overlap the ledger and be nailed to it. The joists are 1 1/2" thick, hence the 3" reduction in length so that the finished deck will be the designated length. If possible, you will want to have the ledger be one long piece of stock. However, if the length is over 16' - 18', it may be hard to find a straight piece that long. In this case, two pieces will work. Always try to use pieces that are at least 6' - 8' long.
Location on the Wall
It is important that the ledger be securely attached. Place the ledger at a point on the wall where, once it is attached, the lag screws attaching the ledger will penetrate something solid such as wall studs or floor joists. Ledgers are often placed at the same level as the floor joists of the first floor, and this automatically solves the problem. In this case, the lag screws will penetrate the band joists. If you are installing the ledger at some other level, see if there is anything solid behind the wall that the lag screws can be screwed into, If there is nothing, you may need to attach the ledger with bolts. First place some blocking behind the wall, to secure it.
Tip: In areas of heavy rain or snow, place a metal flashing on top of each deck board before the deck boards are applied. The metal flashing helps keep water from getting trapped between the decking and the joists and causing rot.
Choosing the Ledger
When selecting a piece for the ledger, be sure it is straight with little bow (a curve in the board). If the ledger is curved, the deck will have a corresponding curve upward or downward. Some minor bow can be forced out as you apply it, but anything more than that (say, 1/2" of curve over 12' of board) will throw the deck off. Be sure the board, as with all decking materials, is of redwood, cedar, cypress, or pressure-treated lumber. After you have decided on the final placement of the ledger, in regard to both its height and location on the wall, you are ready to install it. First, however, check to see if there are any obstructions, such as hose faucets, dryer vents, gas or water pipes, electrical wires, and so on. Any such obstructions may have to be relocated; or, sometimes, the ledger can break, leaving a gap where obstructions occur. Remember that everything below the ledger will be underneath the deck and therefore less accessible. You may need to call in an electrician or a plumber to rearrange some wires or pipes if you cannot do this yourself. Never play with the electrical or gas system unless you are confident that you know exactly what you are doing. Mark on the ground the location of any underground pipes or wires before you begin digging the foundation holes so that you can be sure that you will not be disturbing them. If you cannot locate any pipes or wires, dig slowly and be prepared to change the location of the foundation piers if necessary.
Tip: To help keep rain water running down the wall from flowing into the structure through the lag screw holes, squirt some silicone caulk in the holes before screwing in the lag screws.
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