What You Will Be Doing
In some ways deck building is a rather complex do-it-yourself project, but, since decks do not have to be leak proof or perfectly built, it is well within the scope of most novice builders. This website will provide you with the information you will need to do the work efficiently.
Deck building can be a demanding job both physically and mentally. It is, however, very rewarding. It moves quickly and will give you a pleasing living area for a small price.
Be sure you understand what you are doing before you proceed. The key things to remember in deck building are to be sure you have used all the proper materials and construction techniques, to fend off the decaying properties of water, and to be sure everything is level, plumb, and properly built.
Always understand, develop, and adhere to proper safety practices for each project. For deck construction, these include:
1. Always use the appropriate tool for the job.
2. Keep blades and bits sharp. A dull tool requires excessive force and can slip.
3. Safety goggles and glasses should be worn when using power tools, especially if you wear contacts.
4. Always unplug your power tools when making adjustments or changing attachments.
5. Be sure your tools are properly grounded.
6. Watch power cord placement so it does not interfere with the operation of the tool.
7. Wear ear protection when operating power tools, because some operate at a high noise level which can damage hearing.
8. Be careful that loose hair and clothing do not get caught in power tools.
9. Be careful when carrying long boards at the site.
10. Be careful to avoid back strain when lifting or digging.
11. Wear heavy-soled, sturdy work boots.
12. Bend from the knees when lifting large and heavy objects.
Useful Terms
* All-heart grades. Grades of wood which contain no knots or blemishes.
* Band joists. Joists which form an attractive border or band around the framing joists.
* Bow. The deviation from straight and true seen when looking at a board on its edge.
* Construction common. A grade of redwood containing sapwood.
* Crown. The highest point of a warped board, seen from the board's side.
* Cup. The warp of a board seen from the board's end.
* Girder. A support member of a deck floor framing system which rests upon the piers. The girder is in a position parallel to the ledger and supports the opposite end of the joists.
* HDG (Hot dipped galvanized). A rustproof coated metal which is less expensive than aluminum or stainless steel.
* Joists. A system of floor framing commonly using 2 x 6 or 2 x 8 lumber.
* Ledger. A board of the same size as the joists, attached to a wall, to which the joists are perpendicularly attached.
* Pier Holes. Holes dug to below frost line and filled with cement for a firm footing to raise foundation piers.
* Plumb bob. A heavy object suspended on the end of a string for the purpose of establishing a true vertical line.
* Toe nailing. Nailing at an angle which reduces chances of nails loosening under stress.
* Torpedo level. A level 8 or 9 inches in length with vials to read level, plumb and 45 degrees.
Deck Building 2 - Preparation for Deck Construction
Time - A 12' x 12' deck with a simple foundation and railing can be completed by two people in four days (two weekends). Figure on 64 to 85 work hours to completion, more for complex railing and foundation designs.
Tools - The tools you will need for your deck project are listed in the Tools and Materials Checklist at the end of the project. For most deck projects, common framing tools are needed. No specialized tools are necessary. You may want to consider using a pneumatic tool for nailing on the decking. It makes the process go quickly and easily. Be sure to use high-quality tools that are capable of doing the job without strain. This is especially important in your choice of power tools.
Materials - Your choice of decking and fastener materials is very important. All materials must be chosen according to how well they resist decay and rust Fasteners. When choosing nails, bolts, screws and metal fasteners, use only hot dipped galvanized fasteners. Double hot dipped is even better. These galvanized fasteners will not rust Aluminum and stainless steel nails also will not rust, but HDG, more commonly used, is less expensive. Avoid electroplated galvanized (EG), since galvanized plating will often chip. In recent years many types of galvanized metal fasteners have become common in deck construction. These simplify your project, while adding strength and quality to your construction, and are highly recommended. They can be used in many areas of deck construction, including the following attachments:
* Joist to ledger (joist hanger)
* Girder to post (post cap)
* Joist to girder (right-angle bracket)
* Post to Rafter (rafter fastener)
* Post to foundation (post anchors)
Wood - All wood used on the deck must be decay resistant These woods include:
* Redwood
* Pressure-treated wood
* Cedar
* Cypress
Redwood is perhaps the most attractive and best wood to use, especially in exposed areas such as the decking and railing. It is decay resistant, dimensionally stable, and straight. Redwood is especially good for do-it-yourselfers because it is easy to saw and nail and has little or no pitch. It resists warping, checking, and cupping and is strong for its light weight. It comes in several grades. A construction common, which contains some sapwood, is ideal for the deck boards. The all-heart grades, which are more expensive, are used for luxury decks.
Pressure-treated wood is also commonly used. It is local evergreen treated to resist decay and is often green. If budget is a concern, you may want to use a pressure-treated frame with a redwood deck and railings.
Deck joists are usually 2 x 6, 2 x 8, or 2 x 10 stock. The decking boards are usually 2 x 4 and 2 x 6. 2 x 8 stock is too wide and will cup if used as a decking board.
Permit and Codes
In most areas, some sort of permit is required before you begin to build a deck. If the deck is not attached to the house, or if you live in a rural area, you may not need a permit. Before you start, check this out It is never advisable to build without a permit where one is required.
The permit office will probably require a set of plans. These need not be elaborate, and you can draw them yourself, buy a set, or have a set pre- pared by a draftsperson or architect The plans will specify the following:
* Location of deck. They will want to be sure you are far enough away from neighboring property lines, utility easements, and gas, water, and sewer lines.
* Space between railing pickets. Often the pickets can be placed with no more than a 6' space between them.
* Railing heights. lithe deck is close to the ground, within, say, 30", no railing may be required. If one is required, a minimum railing height of 36" - 42" is required.
* Foundation piers. The local codes will regulate the size, spacing, number, and method of construction of your piers. They will also regulate the depth of your pier hole, depending on the frost line in the area.
* The girder. The local codes will specify the size and location of the girder.
* Joists. The code will specify the size and spacing of the joists. This will depend on the type of wood you will use. Joist charts are available at the code office for each type of wood.
* Fasteners. Many codes will detail your nail or fastener schedules.
* Decking. The plans will specify the size of deck boards and the type of wood used.
* Posts. The plans will specify the size of the posts
* Earthquakes. In earthquake and hurricane areas there may be further requirements on how the piers are fastened to the foundations, the girders to the posts, and the joists to the girders. They may specify certain metal fasteners.
Design
There is much to say about the design of a deck. My intention in this section is to provide you not with a thorough treatise on deck design but rather with a few parameters of design to consider. This is not to understate the importance of design. How well you are pleased with your handiwork and how much you will enjoy using it depend on design more than on construction. What follows are some key things to consider at this crucial stage. Your answers to these questions will largely dictate your design requirements.
1. At what time of day during each season of the year does the deck get sun and shade?
2. How much privacy will the deck give you from neighbors? Will this change when the trees lose their leaves?
3. What will be the deck's access from the house? To the yard?
4. How large should it be? And how much yard must be sacrificed?
5. How should the railings be designed? With planters? With seats?
6. Where should the stairs be placed?
7. Are there any utility lines overhead or below?
8. Should the deck be covered?
9. What will be placed on the deck? Bar-B-Q? Swing? Chairs and tables?
10. Will the deck block the light coming in any windows of the house?
11. How will the deck affect the rooms of the house?
12. How are the views?
13. How much money do you plan to spend?
Most Common Mistakes
Given the complexity of this project, the most common mistakes are listed at the beginning of each step. It is particularly important, when undertaking this challenging project, that you read all sections before picking up your tools and getting to work.
