Building your own deck..setting the ledger board or call Michael at 601 750 2274
Squaring up your layout Deck Building 5 - Drilling Holes for the Ledger
Margin of Error: 1/4"
Most Common Mistakes
1. Using a badly bowed board.
2. Not using rustproof lag screws or bolts.
3. Not installing ledger at proper height or location.
4. Not caulking bolt holes before installing ledger.
5. Drilling holes where joists will be attached.
After you have decided on the placement of the ledger, in regard to both its height and its location on the wall, you are ready to install it.
Choose a good straight piece of ledger stock (usually the same size as the joists) and cut it to the proper length. Again, this is the total length of the deck less 3". Now you can drill holes in the ledger for the lag screws or bolts that will hold the ledger to the house. These holes are drilled with a bit that is 1/8" larger than the actual screws so that you will have a little play for adjustments. Usually the holes are in pairs, one on top of the other, every 30", or staggered singly every 15". Be sure that all holes are drilled at least 1" more from the edge of the board for proper holding. You may want to check with the local code to see if there are any regulations concerning the location of these lag screws.
With the ledger resting on saw horses, begin at one end and mark the lag screw locations. Always drill a pair of holes 12" in from either end. Drill all needed holes.
You are now ready to temporarily attach the ledger to the wall, mark the corresponding holes on the siding, remove the ledger, and drill the holes in the siding. If there is a slight bow in the board, turn this toward the sky, since it is easier to push it down to get it straight.
Place the ledger's top edge at the mark you have located on the wall that represents the top of the ledger and nail one end temporarily in place. Then place a 4' - 8' level on the board, get it exactly level, and temporarily nail in the other end. The ledger is now temporarily nailed in its proper place. Check once again to be sure it is exactly level before marking the holes. Then, with a felt-tipped pen or sharp pencil, mark the lag screw holes that were drilled in the ledger on the wail. Now remove the ledger.
You are now ready to drill the lag screw holes in the wall. Do not use the same size bit that you used on the ledger. Use a bit that is one size smaller than the shank of the lag screw. This will assure that the lag screw has a good bite into the wall. Drill all the holes, being sure to hold the drill straight so the lag screws will go in straight. Again be sure that you are drilling into solid wood, or use the blocking and bolt method described earlier.
After removing the ledger, as a precaution before you attach the ledger permanently to the wall, squirt some silicone caulk in the holes in the wail before screwing in the lag screws. This will help keep rainwater running down the wall from flowing into the structure through the lag screw holes.
Margin of Error: 1/4"
Most Common Mistakes
1. Not leaving a space between the wall and the ledger.
2. Not screwing ledger into something solid.
3. Not using rustproof lag screws.
4. Using galvanized washers with aluminum siding
5. Not caulking holes before installing.
You probably think you are now ready to attach the ledger to the wall, but not quite yet. There is still one crucial detail you must attend to. The situation is as follows. If the ledger were attached directly against the wall, so that the back surface of the ledger was tight against the wall, rainwater running down the wall would get trapped between the wall and the back surface of the ledger. This would cause rotting. To avoid this you need to leave a small space (1/2"- 3/4"), so that water can continue to run to the ground.
The easiest way to do this is to install washers on the lag screws between the ledger and the wall. These washers should be hot dipped galvanized (HDG), which do not rust. Use aluminum washers if your wall is aluminum siding. Galvanized metal touching aluminum causes corrosion. These washers will leave an adequate gap. Also, if your siding is not flat but has different surface levels (beveled siding, aluminum siding, shingles, etc.), more or fewer washers can be installed on the top screws than on the lower ones, to compensate and cause the ledger to be installed true vertical.
After you have threaded the lag screws into the ledger, installed the proper number of washers on each screw, and squirted caulk into the holes, lift the ledger into place, tap the screws into the wall, and, with a socket or crescent wrench, tighten the screws. Be sure that the screws are biting solidly into the wall, especially the last 2". You are now ready to install the two edge joists and locate your pier holes.
If you are using pressure-treated lumber or a decay resistant lumber that is not all heart, we recommend that you paint a waterproofing on the cut ends of the ledger and all other exposed boards.
Tip: Use a combination square and mark a perpendicular line across each joist so that you can place all your nails in a straight line.
Deck Building 7 - Cutting Ends of Joists and Deck Boards
Margin of Error: 1/4"
Most Common Mistakes
1. Joists not set at right angle from the wall.
2. Joists not placed level.
3. Joists not nailed to cover exposed ends of the ledger.
4. Not pointing the crown skyward.
Now that the ledger is permanently attached to the wall, you can install the two outermost joists at either end of the ledger. At this time these joists are being used as reference for locating the foundation pier holes. The outer joists are set in place, lines are drawn between them at the prescribed distance from the wall, and on these lines the location of the foundation pier holes are marked. These marks are then transferred down to the ground and the holes dug. The distance from the house to the supporting girder will depend on the size of your deck, the type of wood being used as joists, and the size and spacing of the joists.
This is a rather simple way of locating your pier holes. It usually works well, unless the lot slopes steeply. Some builders use other techniques, including setting up what is known as batter- boards and layout lines. I think this method using the two outer joists as references is perhaps easiest for the do-it-yourselfer.
Choose two of your straightest joists to install at either end of the ledger. As you look down the joists you will notice that they have a small bow, or crown. Almost no piece of wood is ever perfectly straight.
Once installed, this crown should always point up toward the sky. This is called "crowning a joist" In time the bow will settle down if gravity is working with it. So be sure to crown your joists before installing. Don't worry about cutting the joists the proper length at this time. Let them run wild, since they will be cut when you apply the decking.
When you nail these outer joists to the ledger, do so with the joists covering up the exposed end of the ledger. Have one person nail the joist into the ledger using 3 or 4 16d (penny) HDG (double hot dipped galvanized) nails, while another person supports the other end of the joist in a more or less level position. After the end is nailed to the ledger, drive a temporary 2 x 4 stake into the ground that will hold the floating end level and at a right angle to the ledger. To do this, after one person has nailed the joist to the ledger and while the other person is supporting the other end, place a framing square at the intersection of the joist and the ledger. Once this is approximately 90 degrees, drive a stake in the ground to support the joist there, place a 4' - 8' level on the joist to be sure it is level, and nail the joist to the stake. At this point none of these measurements are too accurate. The next step, using a 3 - 4 - 5 triangle, will insure the accuracy of your right angle.
Tip: You can apply waterproofing coats to redwood at twelve- to eighteen-month intervals to eliminate the darkening effect and preserve the beautiful buckskin color.
To insure this accuracy, use the old mathematical formula that states, in a right-angled triangle the sum of the squares of the sides equals the square of the hypotenuse. (In case you have forgotten your high school geometry, the hypotenuse is the side opposite the right angle.) For example, if the two sides of a triangle are 3 and 4 (feet, inches, miles, etc.) and the hypotenuse is 5, then the angle across from the hypotenuse is a true right angle (3 squared + 4 squared=5 squared, or 9 + 16=25). This is also referred to as the 3 - 4 - 5 triangle. This remains accurate if you multiply each side by the same number, for example, 6 - 8 - 10, or even 300 - 400 - 500.
Back to our deck. Our goal is to assure that these two outside joists are at a true right angle to the ledger. Measure out along the ledger from the outside edge 8' and mark it. Measure along the joist 6' and mark. Now measure between these two marks. If it is 10' (we are using a 6 - & - 10 triangle) then you are at a true right angle. If not, readjust your stake and joist until it is exactly 10' between the marks. Once you have it exact, nail some temporary cross braces from the ledger to the joists at an angle to keep the joists in place. You should now have your two outer joists level, at true right angles from the ledger, and temporarily supported by stakes.
Squaring up your layout Deck Building 5 - Drilling Holes for the Ledger
Margin of Error: 1/4"
Most Common Mistakes
1. Using a badly bowed board.
2. Not using rustproof lag screws or bolts.
3. Not installing ledger at proper height or location.
4. Not caulking bolt holes before installing ledger.
5. Drilling holes where joists will be attached.
After you have decided on the placement of the ledger, in regard to both its height and its location on the wall, you are ready to install it.
Choose a good straight piece of ledger stock (usually the same size as the joists) and cut it to the proper length. Again, this is the total length of the deck less 3". Now you can drill holes in the ledger for the lag screws or bolts that will hold the ledger to the house. These holes are drilled with a bit that is 1/8" larger than the actual screws so that you will have a little play for adjustments. Usually the holes are in pairs, one on top of the other, every 30", or staggered singly every 15". Be sure that all holes are drilled at least 1" more from the edge of the board for proper holding. You may want to check with the local code to see if there are any regulations concerning the location of these lag screws.
With the ledger resting on saw horses, begin at one end and mark the lag screw locations. Always drill a pair of holes 12" in from either end. Drill all needed holes.
You are now ready to temporarily attach the ledger to the wall, mark the corresponding holes on the siding, remove the ledger, and drill the holes in the siding. If there is a slight bow in the board, turn this toward the sky, since it is easier to push it down to get it straight.
Place the ledger's top edge at the mark you have located on the wall that represents the top of the ledger and nail one end temporarily in place. Then place a 4' - 8' level on the board, get it exactly level, and temporarily nail in the other end. The ledger is now temporarily nailed in its proper place. Check once again to be sure it is exactly level before marking the holes. Then, with a felt-tipped pen or sharp pencil, mark the lag screw holes that were drilled in the ledger on the wail. Now remove the ledger.
You are now ready to drill the lag screw holes in the wall. Do not use the same size bit that you used on the ledger. Use a bit that is one size smaller than the shank of the lag screw. This will assure that the lag screw has a good bite into the wall. Drill all the holes, being sure to hold the drill straight so the lag screws will go in straight. Again be sure that you are drilling into solid wood, or use the blocking and bolt method described earlier.
After removing the ledger, as a precaution before you attach the ledger permanently to the wall, squirt some silicone caulk in the holes in the wail before screwing in the lag screws. This will help keep rainwater running down the wall from flowing into the structure through the lag screw holes.
Margin of Error: 1/4"
Most Common Mistakes
1. Not leaving a space between the wall and the ledger.
2. Not screwing ledger into something solid.
3. Not using rustproof lag screws.
4. Using galvanized washers with aluminum siding
5. Not caulking holes before installing.
You probably think you are now ready to attach the ledger to the wall, but not quite yet. There is still one crucial detail you must attend to. The situation is as follows. If the ledger were attached directly against the wall, so that the back surface of the ledger was tight against the wall, rainwater running down the wall would get trapped between the wall and the back surface of the ledger. This would cause rotting. To avoid this you need to leave a small space (1/2"- 3/4"), so that water can continue to run to the ground.
The easiest way to do this is to install washers on the lag screws between the ledger and the wall. These washers should be hot dipped galvanized (HDG), which do not rust. Use aluminum washers if your wall is aluminum siding. Galvanized metal touching aluminum causes corrosion. These washers will leave an adequate gap. Also, if your siding is not flat but has different surface levels (beveled siding, aluminum siding, shingles, etc.), more or fewer washers can be installed on the top screws than on the lower ones, to compensate and cause the ledger to be installed true vertical.
After you have threaded the lag screws into the ledger, installed the proper number of washers on each screw, and squirted caulk into the holes, lift the ledger into place, tap the screws into the wall, and, with a socket or crescent wrench, tighten the screws. Be sure that the screws are biting solidly into the wall, especially the last 2". You are now ready to install the two edge joists and locate your pier holes.
If you are using pressure-treated lumber or a decay resistant lumber that is not all heart, we recommend that you paint a waterproofing on the cut ends of the ledger and all other exposed boards.
Tip: Use a combination square and mark a perpendicular line across each joist so that you can place all your nails in a straight line.
Deck Building 7 - Cutting Ends of Joists and Deck Boards
Margin of Error: 1/4"
Most Common Mistakes
1. Joists not set at right angle from the wall.
2. Joists not placed level.
3. Joists not nailed to cover exposed ends of the ledger.
4. Not pointing the crown skyward.
Now that the ledger is permanently attached to the wall, you can install the two outermost joists at either end of the ledger. At this time these joists are being used as reference for locating the foundation pier holes. The outer joists are set in place, lines are drawn between them at the prescribed distance from the wall, and on these lines the location of the foundation pier holes are marked. These marks are then transferred down to the ground and the holes dug. The distance from the house to the supporting girder will depend on the size of your deck, the type of wood being used as joists, and the size and spacing of the joists.
This is a rather simple way of locating your pier holes. It usually works well, unless the lot slopes steeply. Some builders use other techniques, including setting up what is known as batter- boards and layout lines. I think this method using the two outer joists as references is perhaps easiest for the do-it-yourselfer.
Choose two of your straightest joists to install at either end of the ledger. As you look down the joists you will notice that they have a small bow, or crown. Almost no piece of wood is ever perfectly straight.
Once installed, this crown should always point up toward the sky. This is called "crowning a joist" In time the bow will settle down if gravity is working with it. So be sure to crown your joists before installing. Don't worry about cutting the joists the proper length at this time. Let them run wild, since they will be cut when you apply the decking.
When you nail these outer joists to the ledger, do so with the joists covering up the exposed end of the ledger. Have one person nail the joist into the ledger using 3 or 4 16d (penny) HDG (double hot dipped galvanized) nails, while another person supports the other end of the joist in a more or less level position. After the end is nailed to the ledger, drive a temporary 2 x 4 stake into the ground that will hold the floating end level and at a right angle to the ledger. To do this, after one person has nailed the joist to the ledger and while the other person is supporting the other end, place a framing square at the intersection of the joist and the ledger. Once this is approximately 90 degrees, drive a stake in the ground to support the joist there, place a 4' - 8' level on the joist to be sure it is level, and nail the joist to the stake. At this point none of these measurements are too accurate. The next step, using a 3 - 4 - 5 triangle, will insure the accuracy of your right angle.
Tip: You can apply waterproofing coats to redwood at twelve- to eighteen-month intervals to eliminate the darkening effect and preserve the beautiful buckskin color.
To insure this accuracy, use the old mathematical formula that states, in a right-angled triangle the sum of the squares of the sides equals the square of the hypotenuse. (In case you have forgotten your high school geometry, the hypotenuse is the side opposite the right angle.) For example, if the two sides of a triangle are 3 and 4 (feet, inches, miles, etc.) and the hypotenuse is 5, then the angle across from the hypotenuse is a true right angle (3 squared + 4 squared=5 squared, or 9 + 16=25). This is also referred to as the 3 - 4 - 5 triangle. This remains accurate if you multiply each side by the same number, for example, 6 - 8 - 10, or even 300 - 400 - 500.
Back to our deck. Our goal is to assure that these two outside joists are at a true right angle to the ledger. Measure out along the ledger from the outside edge 8' and mark it. Measure along the joist 6' and mark. Now measure between these two marks. If it is 10' (we are using a 6 - & - 10 triangle) then you are at a true right angle. If not, readjust your stake and joist until it is exactly 10' between the marks. Once you have it exact, nail some temporary cross braces from the ledger to the joists at an angle to keep the joists in place. You should now have your two outer joists level, at true right angles from the ledger, and temporarily supported by stakes.
